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CANADIANS BRAG about how clean Lake Superior is -- so clean, they say, that with minimal filtration it provides drinking water for all the towns that line its shores. Most of those towns have a 1950s ambiance, and many are built around pulp factories that send great clouds of thick white steam into the blue sky, and wood slivers into the water.

These factory towns don't offer much in the way of entertainment, culture, or even the friendliness that I found in the American farmlands. In fact, I was finding the whole Canadian experience somewhat boring. The terrain had already lost its appeal: blue sky, blue water, green trees, white clouds, a small town with a pulp factory. More blue sky, blue water, green trees, white clouds, then another small town with a pulp factory. Then blue sky, blue water green trees, white clouds.

At a place called Thunder Bay, I decided to go scuba diving in the clean, clear waters of Lake Superior. . .

. . . read the rest of this story in American Borders - the book

Index | Dispatch 15

 

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